Written By: Ripley Davenport
On Date: 4/5/2005
If you were to spin the globe and stick pins in all the popular fly-fishing destinations known to date, I guarantee Lithuania wouldn’t even get a mention even if it was declared that 25 km North of Vilnius is the geographical centre of Europe.
We all read endless articles and magazines plagued with the usual destinations and even though the information gets repetitive with time, there are still many untouched waters in this world offering a countless high caliber of game fish that would ignite a spark in the mind of any adventurous fly-fisherman.
Lithuania is still raw and untouched with regard to fly-fishing and more than any other destination I have experienced, with it’s lush green countryside with winding watercourses that cut through forests and meadows, all visible from the aerial overview of Lithuania is breathtaking as you approach Vilnius the nations metropolis.
This amazing country is developing fast and entered the EU in 2004 after a bumpy ride through history. With all the turmoil and wars and darkness that the country has experienced the land is moving into the light. The countries well endowed 758 endless rivers, streams and brooks over 10km long and over 3000 lakes set in lush green valleys and forests - all seemed to have escaped the communist depression and Soviet concrete.
Outside the city boundaries of Vilnius the country seems to have frozen in time.
One area just coming to light is the Dzukija National Park, founded in 1991 and located in the south-eastern corner of Lithuania, which covers 10,587 hectares, 85% is forest cover, which is known for considerable numbers of elk, deer, wild boar, wolves and foxes. The two main rivers that scour this landscape are the Nemunas and Merkys rivers. Their tributaries that cut the landscape boast brown trout and grayling that have never seen an artificial fly or angler. The waters run crystal clear with a slight lemon tint enabling you to spot fish hugging the sandy bottom covered with loose stones and pebbles.
Never before had I felt entirely at ease as I stood in a small crystal clear tributary of the Merkys river surrounded by endless wild forest casting to the sound of birds high in the pine canopies. The stream I was stood in offered me fourteen brown trout that day and apparently - it was no bonanza. The power of the stream caressing the back of my legs and the sweet damp air that my every breath engulfed ignited my mind with visions of freedom, truth and adventure.
Wading, although part of any ones overall experience, didn’t always bring the most strikes. Like fly-fishing in Denmark – a country I am accustomed too - most subtle strategies and casts are done from the river bank, which when practiced here, also seemed to pay off. I had so much water at my disposal that I practically ran along the riverbanks picking out obvious holes and lies that I knew would hold fish. I felt spoilt for choice.
There were moments when I forgot I was in Lithuania. In fact it wouldn’t have mattered where I was, time seemed to slow down even stop.
Another tributary and rather a mirror image of some Danish river called the Salcia promised everything. It’s waters gently meander through the fields and forests splitting occasionally into several small fast running streams then merging back into it’s main body as it runs towards the Merkys river just south of Valkininkai.
Standing on the bridge I could see trout holding in the deeper pools and shelter that the bridge stanchions had to offer. Rising upstream and a steady layer of surface flies littered the film.
Walking upstream for about thirty minutes revealed some incredible water and several over confident grayling breaking the calm surface mirror. What a dream I was walking through.
The Merkys River is long and by far, some places are difficult to find. Most of the river cuts through thick forest where good navigational skills would be required. There are few scattered forest tracks and few roads near to the banks but it seems that the Merkys has found solitude as it edges through the land towards the Nenunas River.
The Varena River became a firm favorite. It’s gentle and clean waters held brown trout displaying colors that shocked me into silence. Although hard to approach due to the water clarity and thick riverbank vegetation they were a joy to watch.
The park has more rivers and streams than I could count.
Other favorites are the Ula, Neris, and Zeimena but I feel this is just a scratch on a surface yet to form. The country is full of rivers and it would take a lifetime to experience half of them. If you are seeking solitude complimented with a raw and rustic edge then Lithuania holds the key to every desire. Isn’t it time to experience something new and different or are we all looking forward to the next repetitive story of some destination we already know about?
Getting there is simple. Numerous airlines fly into Vilnius International airport, which is served by most European International Airports.
Lithuanian Airlines
+370 (5) 2306017
www.lal.lt
SAS Airlines
+45 7010 20 00
www.scandinavian.net
KLM Airlines
+020 4 747 747
www.klm.nl
Fishing is permitted all year round and for the hardcore among you, winter offers classic grayling angling. February to April can be very cold, wet so some warm clothing is necessary with a waterproof warm jacket and thermal under clothes. The climate is similar to that of Denmark or the UK but winter can be cold and hard. Generally speaking mid April to October is the best time with May / June being premium time due to the overwhelming hatch of the E. Danica and other upwings. Good arsenal to bring is 9’ to 12’leaders tapered to 3x-6x, and tippet in 4X, 5X and 6X. Many mayfly patterns from home (Pale Morning Duns, Blue-Winged Olives, Adams even Humpy’s) will work
A rod class 4 to 6 will suit most situations with a double taper / weight forward - floating fly lines.
A rod class 7 to 9 with a sinking tip can be used for those interested in sea trout and salmon fishing. Classic salmon and sea trout flies work well and it would be good to experiment with a variety of patterns.
There are several nice country Inns scattered throughout the country offering reasonable service. But be warned that tourism is still new especially in the country so you might have problems with communication. Vilnius is by far excellent. Most residents, hotels and cafes all speak good English. Advance booking would be advised through your travel agent or through the Lithuanian Tourism Service if you plan to indulge in self-exploration. The food is excellent, which can’t be faulted as well as the history and art displayed in its old buildings.
Distant Streams Guide Service offers all-inclusive fly-fishing holidays and guide service in Lithuania to the Neris Regional and Dzukija National Park at very reasonable rates with quality in service. You can find more information at: www.distantstreams.com or by writing to distantstreams@mail.com Tel. +45 6474 1811 or +45 2096 4635
Information on fly-fishing in Lithuania is difficult to come by on the Internet. You can contact the Lithuanian Tourism Service on www.tourism.lt or www.travel.lt
RD
www.distantstreams.com
Distant Streams Guide Service
Lithuania - Undiscovered fly-fishing territory